Skye-messing about on the water
A guide to water-borne activities on Skye

As a surfer it seems then whenever I visit somewhere in the world my views of it tend to be from the ocean looking back at the land rather than the other way round. Skye unfortunately, doesn't number surfable waves amongst its many attributes despite the mysterious talk within the surfing fraternity of surf conditions which materialise when the swell direction, wind direction and gods of surf all smile and come together at exactly the same time.
If I'm not in the ocean then I like to be on it and here Skye comes into its own, with more opportunities within a few miles radius for getting water borne than almost anywhere else I know in the world. And it matters little whether you are of the semi-gilled water-lover variety or a complete landlubber - there is something to suit in a variety of styles, tailored for every budget and taste.
If you are looking for wilderness, isolation and/or immersion then it's there for the taking or should you prefer something more upbeat, lively and sociable you can have that too.

Calling all Nature lovers - come get your fill
For many people seeing a dolphin in the wild is one of life's defining moments and nowhere in Britain are you as likely to spot one of these magical creatures of myth and legend as in the waters of the Hebrides. The North Minch, the name for the body of water lying to the north of Skye, is incredibly nutrient rich due to underwater mountains and attracts an abundant array of marine creatures.
There are several species of dolphin and whale which call these waters home and the Hebrides appears to offer cetaceans (whales, dolphins and porpoises) as many reasons to visit as it does humans with both species choosing to come calling for a while every year. Here's an interesting fact for any would-be whale spotter - 33% of the entire North Atlantic whale population is thought to pass through the waters of the Hebrides at some point during the year.
Harbour Porpoise and Minke Whale are the most commonly spotted but Bottlenose dolphins, Risso's Dolphins, Common Dolphins, Orcas or Killer Whales (a Minch all year round resident), Humpback Whales and Sperm Whales have all been spotted in these waters. In October 2010 a rare Fin Whale, the world's second largest animal after the Blue Whale, was spotted a few miles north of Skye. Other rarities such as Atlantic Whitesided Dolphins and Sei Whales have also been recorded as visitors in the past.
If this isn't enough to make you immediately pack a suitcase and head directly to Skye, there's more. Basking sharks, the second largest fish on earth, both incredibly beautiful and gentle creatures, are a regular summer visitor to both inshore and offshore waters around Skye.
It is possible to stay with your feet firmly planted on land and spot one of the magnificent creatures listed above but stepping onto a boat and heading away from land raises your chances ten fold. Luckily, Skye offers many opportunities for doing just that and what's more, many of the boat trips, which range in duration and price, are geared specifically to wildlife spotting. Expect to see more seals than you can shake a stick at, lose count of the bird species you will see which may include Sea Eagles, Golden Eagles and Puffins and hope that you are one of the honoured and spot a fin or two. Dolphins and porpoises will often follow, bow ride or approach boats closely depending on their whim and their agenda for the day.
Boat trips depart from several different locations around Skye including Portree, Armadale and Elgol and it is worth bearing in mind that they are often seasonal and weather-dependant.

Or maybe without an engine.....
For an even more up close and personal experience consider sea kayaking. If you fall into the previously mentioned landlubber category and think that a paddle is something which happens when you roll up your trouser legs at the seaside, don't worry, you're invited too.
Furthermore, should you be concerned that sea kayaking takes you beyond your adventurous comfort zone then get out a map of the Isle of Skye and see for yourself why it is the beginner kayaker's paradise. Secluded coves lapped by impossibly clear or aquamarine waters and protected inlets abound, many of them only accessible by sea. You can explore these yourself if you have the confidence and ability or go on a guided tour led by an expert guide.
Wildlife takes little notice of kayakers who make so little noise as they approach, enabling intimate experiences, the like of which you will never have had before.

And there's more....including a fisherman's dream
If you fancy upping the exertion stakes a little more then windsurfing and water-skiing are two more water based activities at which you can try your hand with all equipment included in the tuition price. Sailing and yacht charter add yet more choices for those eager to get out onto the water, again with opportunities for both beginners and experts. A glass bottom boat trip departs from the Kyle of Lochalsh, just across the Skye bridge, which is a wonderful opportunity for those who want to see what's under the water without getting themselves wet.

Should fishing be more your bag, Skye will seem like you have died and gone to fisherman's heaven offering a wealth of game fishing opportunities throughout its system of freshwater lochs and rivers or alternatively you can head into open seas with one of the fishing boat trips available. Opportunities aren't just for seasoned fishermen; if you've always fancied trying your hand but don't know where to start then trips or tuition offered on Skye will get you casting like a pro' in no time at all. Rock fishing opportunities are ten a penny and, as always when seeking the best that somewhere has to offer, ask a local who can point you in the right direction.

If you just want to explore but have nothing particular in mind then ferry day trips which depart from Uig or Armadale will take you to the Outer Hebrides or the Small Isles, Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna with some of the trips arranging island coach tours within the price.

And now for something extra special....
For those not averse to getting their toes wet then the Isle of Skye has something extra special in store for you. So magical and enchanting a place is this that I am somewhat loathe to share nicely, as my Mother always taught me. As the Allt Coir a' Mhadaidh tumbles and spills its way from the heights of the Cullins on its race ocean-wards, it forms a series of pools and falls of such breathtaking beauty it becomes more than possible to believe that you have indeed entered some fairy kingdom from which the Fairy Pools take their name. Some of the pools are deep enough for swimming while others are just for sitting, contemplating and filling your senses in complete solitude. Either way you can imagine with little effort that you are in a scene from The Lord of the Rings and the wizard Gandalf may suddenly appear at any moment.

For another time out of place experience take a stroll to the Coral Beaches not far from Dunvegan. The pure white sand and turquoise waters will trick you into thinking that some accident has landed you on a tropical paradise beach more usually associated with the Bahamas than a Scottish island.

On my constant global travels, my route can pretty much be mapped by 'places I have surfed'. It takes something extra-special to pull me away from the chance of my wave fix. Skye is that something extra special. I may not be able to surf but I can find many opportunities to satisfy my endless desire to be on or in the water and so beautiful and diverse is Skye that just sitting and ocean gazing can occupy hours; on Skye the ocean's many moods are always just a stone's throw away - launching herself furiously against rocks and exploding in spray or as tranquil and smooth faced as a sleeping baby.

However you choose to spend your time on Skye, be sure that at least some of it is from the water, looking back. An island is not an island unless it is surrounded by water; until you have experienced some kind of relationship with those waters you will not have touched all of it and will leave without knowing it's heartbeat.

by Deneice Atherton - 2nd March 2011

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