A view of Skinidin, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye
 

 Seal Haven Holiday Cottage on Skye

 

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Dunvegan Castle in Skye
Dunvegan Castle in Skye is the seat of the Clan MacLeod. The family have lived there for over seven centuries, and the castle is the longest continuously occupied residence in Scotland

Dunvegan Castle from the sea

Dunvegan Castle - Isle of Skye

Dunvegan Castle lies just north of the village of Dunvegan, in the north-west of the Isle of Skye. Situated on the eastern shores of Loch Dunvegan, it commands views over the loch and guards the entrance to the small sea loch, leading to Dunvegan village itself.

The castle, as it is today, is the result of a succession of different structures built up over the centuries on the summit of a basalt outcrop, 15 metres above the shoreline. Around the thirteenth century, the only entrance was by the 'seagate', with protection from the landward side being provided by a deep ditch. Nowadays, of course, entrance is much easier by the main door which is set at mid-height in the structure and accessed by a bridge,.

As with most Scottish castles, Dunvegan has had it share of plots and intrique down the years. It is only from the sixteenth century that records and traditions began to reveal something of the life and events which took place within the castle walls. Even so, there are stories of murders being committed within the castle, mostly to do with power and succession. To you today, absorbing the atmosphere of the castle, it can be a somewhat eerie sensation to feel the years fall away as you imagine the dark goings on that took place within these stone walls.

MacLeod's Tables.

To the south-west of Dunvegan Castle, lies MacLeods Tables. There is a story of one (Chief) Alisdair Crotach ('Hunchback') who was not only said to be an able warrior, but also a cultivated diplomat. His nickname arose from an axe wound received during a skirmish in 1480 that left him with a permanent deformity. He could easily sit with ease at the King's table, where, on one occasion, he was reputedly goaded by a nobleman, who foolishly enquired whether Skye could boast a roof so lofty, a table so laden, and a candelabra so ornate as that set before them. The man was invited to come to Dunvegan and see for himself. In due course the man appeared at the castle, where he expected to be invited inside. Instead he was lead to the top of Healabhal Mhor (MacLeod's Table). There, as night fell, he beheld a line of clansmen, rimming the plateau, each holding aloft a blazing torch to illuminate the sumptuous feast set before them. After the banquet Alisdair pointed to the star-studded sky and asked if this were not a more impressive roof, or the table before them of vaster extent? As to the candelabra, could anything be more precious than these faithful clansmen? Appropriately humbled the nobleman apologised. Take the walk up MacLeod's Tables and imagine the scene.

Dunvegan Castle today is a popular destination for the visitor to Skye. In addition to the castle itself, the castle gardens are well worth the time to visit. Even on less favourable days, weatherwise, you can walk and enjoy the gardens in their lovely tree sheltered location. The gardens were laid out in the 18th century and now include a water garden and a walled garden with pleasant woodland walks by the lochside.

Johnson and Boswell.

On another historical note, Johnson and Boswell, in their 'Journey to the Western Isles' refer to a visit to Dunvegan Castle in 1773. Departing from Edinburgh on the 18th of August, they came to Skye on 2nd September. Two weeks from Edinburgh to Skye is somewhat longer than the five or six hours needed today. Thereafter, passing through Skye, they came to Dunvegan Castle on the 13th of September where they were happily entertained and stayed for about a week. Both Dr Samuel Johnson and his travelling companion, James Boswell have written a journal of their travels, and the contrast in their views is interesting. In the context of Dunvegan Castle it brings alive a brief moment in the castle's history. Both accounts can be purchased in a combined paperback volume. You can also see the books in pdf format by clicking on the download links at the bottom of the page. The copy for these downloads was obtained from the free ebook site www.gutenburg.org. Other books by Johnson and Boswell can be seen there. If you have an interest it would be worth looking at the accounts of their stay at Dunvegan Castle before visiting the castle.  Samuel Johnson, (or Dr Johnson) is the second most quoted person in the English language, after Shakespeare and a noted 18th century essayist, poet and talker amongst other things.  I confess that that is something that I have just learned.  Worth reading.

Seal Haven Cottage and Coral Beach.

Seal Haven cottage is less than ten minutes in the car from Dunvegan Castle. You can have a meal at the Castle Restaurant and browse their adjacent shop. Not far away is a castle shop where tartan and woollen goods can be viewed.

A nice walk, along the coast from Dunvegan Castle, is the Coral Beach. Drive past the castle to the car park at Claigan. The beach is sign posted, through a gate, and then a walk of about a mile. The second of the beaches is the better one and a nice place to stop for a picnic. The beach, which is easily seen from Seal Haven cottage, is not composed of coral but of dessicated and sun bleached algae. It is more of a gentle stroll than a walk but affords good views of the western side of the loch and the outer isles. It is an excellent spot to view magnificent sunsets, even from your car, and could be the perfect end to a nice day after your evening meal.

Book Choice.

If you want to learn more of Skye castles I can recommend a book by Roger Miket and David L. Roberts called The Mediaeval Castles of Skye and Lochalsh, ISBN 1 84158 613 7 at £10.99. I picked up my copy in the Aros centre in Portree. There is a foreword to the book by Clan MacLeod Chief, John MacLeod of MacLeod, and several other residents of Skye have contributed to the work.  The Alasdair Crotach information above was derived from this book.

A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland, Dr Samuel Johnson

A Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, by James Boswell 

Go to Skye cottage links page to link to Dunvegan Castle website.  We hope that you come to Seal Haven cottage and enjoy a visit to Dunvegan Castle.

                                                                                           by Neil Gracie - 20th March 2010

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www.isleofskyeholidays.co.uk for the finest in Skye cottage holidays. 

Source: http://www.gutenburg.org.  Project Gutenberg, the first producer of free electronic books (ebooks).

 

 

Visitor book entries.  With grateful thanks to our guests.

"We love this cottage. Views amazing. Skies at dawn and dusk -wow! The cottage is cozy and homely. We were given such a lovely welcome. Thank you."

"V. enjoyable week - cottage perfect to return to after long walks. Really appreciated all the attention to detail - everything we needed to hand. Made the most of the woodburner every evening."

"have had many self catering holidays but have never stayed anywhere so well equipped and with such a feeling of generosity. A quiet and relaxing week - just what we needed."

"Excellent cottage, lots of nice touches and really appreciated the views...................... Great week, great hosts, great place."

"Thank you for providing a lovely cottage and a warm welcome, It is very hard for us to leave here but we will be back soon."

"Seal Haven has exceeded all our expectations of what it would be like. It is the prettiest scenery we have ever seen - it's a joy to wash-up looking looking out over the loch!......................"

Visitor comments are available to view at Seal Haven Cottage on Skye


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